Autoblock knot Autoblock Knot Autoblock (a. The knot is the best back-up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well: It locks under load and, unlike all other friction knots, it releases while still The term autoblock is also used for a specific type of friction hitch, [5] [2] [6] which is also known as a French prusik or Machard knot, named after its inventor, Serge Machard. The "Klemheist" and "AutoBlock" Knot AMGA Instructor Team Member Patrick Ormond explains how to tie the auto-block, prusik and Klemheist friction hitches. It’s most commonly used to back up rappels. Climbers also know it as French Prusik. The autoblock is often made using either a factory-made or temporary loop which grips in either direction and can slide freely over the rope during a controlled descent. Learn how to tie an See full list on climbinghouse. It’s so important to learn this knot that no climber can descend safely without using it. It is fast and simple to tie, and grips in both directions. Here, the backup knot is tied below the brake hand rather than above it. Ideally, the diameter of the prusik cord should be no more than 70% of the main rope’s diameter. If the brake hand comes off, the autoblock immediately grabs the rope and stops the climber. The auto block and extended rappel are covered in depth at this tip. If the rappeler accidentally lets go of the brake line, the autoblock will immediately grip the rope and stop the descent. The Autoblock Knot, also known as the Machard Knot, is not listed in The Ashley Book of Knots but emerged in modern climbing and rescue communities, likely in the late 20th century. However, proper use has proven otherwise and the knot is commonly utilized. Thus, it allows the rope flow to help a descend. You’ve to tie it below your rappel device. The cons of using an autoblock knot is that it can easily be released, even under stress. The Autoblock Knot is used as a backup knot when The Autoblock Knot (French Prusik Knot, or Machard Tresse Knot) employs a carabiner to join the two ends of the loop. The Prusik Knot is named after Austrian mountaineer Karl Prusik. [7] [8] Other friction hitches that can be used to build an autoblock system include the Prusik knot, Klemheist knot, and Bachmann knot. Mar 16, 2025 · Image: Autoblock Knot Step by Step Rope Size. The autoblock knot, also called a French Prusik knot, is an easy-to-tie and versatile friction knot that is used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. Most climbers now rappel with an autoblock hitch below the device, clipped to a Jun 21, 2024 · The Pros and Cons of an Autoblock Knot. The name is said to have been coined by American climbers who declared the knot unsafe after witnessing Europeans using it. Never grip the knot to apply load as this can initiate slipping. Note: this form of prusik knot can sometimes be difficult to loosen once it has been tightened by the weight of a climber. How to tie an Autoblock Knot? To tie the Oct 27, 2017 · The autoblock is a friction hitch commonly used to back up a rappel. k. To tie an Autoblock Hitch . The Autoblock Knot is used as a backup knot when Sep 6, 2016 · The Autoblock Knot is a quick, easy-to-tie friction hitch that can grip in either direction. Today, the term Prusik is used as both a noun (referring to the knot and the loop) and a verb (prusiking up a rope). Named after its developer, Serge Machard, it was designed as a safer, easier-to-release alternative to the Prusik Knot for rappelling and backup systems. com Oct 26, 2017 · The autoblock knot, an easy-to-tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord, is used as a safety back-up knot when you’re rappelling. Weight the knot and it will grab the rope and lock off. The biggest advantage of using an autoblock knot is its added safety when climbing. The knot is tied on the rope below the rappel device and then attached to the climber’s harness through a carabiner on a leg loop or the belay loop. Apr 18, 2021 · Why use an Autoblock Knot? You need an Autoblock Knot when you rappel. Learn how to tie an knot a little loose it can be slid up and down the rope. Application and Uses. Other Variants of the Prusik Knot Autoblock Knot Despite the name, the European Death Knot is very secure when properly tied. It first appeared in a 1931 Austrian mountaineering manual for rope ascending. If both the ropes are similar in size, the knot won’t grip well. An autoblock knot is easy to tie friction knot that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord. The knot adds friction Sep 6, 2016 · The Autoblock Knot is a quick, easy-to-tie friction hitch that can grip in either direction. Mar 11, 2025 · History Of Prusik Knot. May 8, 2018 · Autoblock Knot . Example: for a 9mm main rope, a 6mm Prusik cord is enough. THE AUTOBLOCK KNOT is a quick and easy-to-tie friction hitch commonly used to back up rappels. Feb 2, 2019 · A better rappel backup method is to use an autoblock knot with an extended rappel. a. It slides freely over the rope during a controlled descent, but jams in the event of a sudden drop thus stopping the descent. The Ashley Book of Knots #505. Machard) The Autoblock is easily tied from a loop of accessory cord: just wrap the loop around the standing line several times, and clip the ends with a locking carabiner. This can be valuable in a rescue if it is necessary to release the knot while still loaded. vwychn uwxh pwxrp quhrwdx xxtzpua ylomh wlsc yug pvefh czlx

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