Dmm alloy offset vs dmm offset Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre I carry both, dmm standards (minus the largest 3) and dmm offsets on two ovals for small and large. I look at them as two different tools for similar jobs. Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply. I often leave the regular Wallnuts on the ground. Page 1 of 1 Original Post. The design behind DMM's offset nuts was invented by Hugh Banner back when HB Wales still existed. The WC is more versatile but gives slightly less option in flare cracks, however with more sizes in the sets isn't bad. Since you have a regular set of stoppers, I would recommend the DMM alloy offsets since they give more placement options. Angles seem less subtle on DMM. Moved Permanently. Jan 4, 2019 · I like the angles of the DMM offsets better. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. Sometimes and offset is better than a standard and vice versa. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. DMM are only making the same sizes that HB made from alloy – sizes 7 to 11 – the smaller sizes originally made of brass, like RPs, are not currently available. I loved my hugh banner offsets but sold them when i left climbing for a chunk of time. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. The offsets fit in such a huge variety of placements, it’s extremely rare that I find a placement for a standard nut that won’t take a DMM offset. The Offset Stopper features noticeably more rounded corners with a shallow face scoop. Aug 17, 2015 · I bought a set of the BD offset micro-nuts as my first pro specifically bought for aid climbing. Nov 23, 2021 · Alloy Offsets with the Halfnuts as backup. When he died and the company shut down in 2005, climbers Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. Since then I have bought multiple sets of DMM alloy offsets and brass offsets. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Apr 25, 2017 · HB offset nut sizing vs. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Jun 4, 2025 · If the DMM alloy offsets came in a wider range of sizes, these would be our top pick. Jan 12, 2018 · Though standard nuts (like the DMM Wallnuts that I climb with) usually get the job done, I don't think I truly felt a bomber nut placement until I started climbing with DMM Alloy Offset nuts. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Their must be a reason for this product to exist. Plus the DMM shape was familiar to me. Feb 6, 2018 · For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? I can see for smaller and micro offset nuts it being necessary as you can only get so small by turning a regular nut on it's side. The DMM nuts are far superior on Yosemite and Zion walls, in my opinion. The document has moved here. Hence it was with real pleasure that offset-lovers heard that DMM had bought the moulds and would bring the offsets back to market. The DMM HB Alloy Offsets have clean cut corners with a deeper scoop. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Aug 9, 2020 · The DMM Alloy Offset is kind useless in parallel cracks but very good on tapered. Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. com Irregular is better. It gives enough tapered placements for almost all situations. DMM alloy offsets. Slogger · Apr 25, 2017 · Irregular is better. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. My understanding is that DMM matched the design of HB & when i compared the BD & DMM i liked the more obvious angles & offsets of DMM. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. I also carry my tricams (black to blue) on a third oval. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. Black Diamond also use a harder alloy than DMM do on their offering. The DMM Wallnuts provide some of the offset functionality of the DMM Alloy offset, a curved nut that comes in slightly different shapes, with the added benefit of the wide range of sizes. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr. The two main problems with BD’s offerings compared to DMM’s offsets lie in the geometry and the alloy. Jan 27, 2018 · Also, the wild country ones are only offset on one side which only gives you two options for placing them as an offset, whereas the DMMs have 4 options because they are offset on all sides. With DMM Alloy Offset you need to bring regular nuts because you don't have it. I also have a double set of the DMM aluminum Peanuts (offset). kfioc liclgys bymar saaqd umxmwpk gwzdizm nrsii fghnh depg qvmoy